I have done this walk many times, but this time I noted some of the gradients. After passing through Dhulikhel, there is the steady ascent on ‘the thousand steps’ to the Kali temple, then the path goes down quite a way to the main highway that goes to the Terai, then gradually rising and winding round, with good views of the mountains, if only the humidity and smog were less these days. The road was being levelled and graded probably prior to being resurfaced, and it was quiet too. Above we could see a new building, that looks like a hotel, but incomplete, then another much more elaborate construction of a hotel underway, and finally the rather large and imposing new hotel, Dusit Thani Himalayan Resort. All of these new places have been constructed with the view in mind, though it is a bit further away than Dhulikhel, but it might allow a perspective on the further western ramparts of the Himalayas.
Finally, we go round the corner and descend slightly. Suddenly, another new hotel, though smaller, comes into view, the construction still going on. But beside it, there was a copy of an old style farmhouse. I wanted to go and see it close up, and Madhu said, yes, we could. So went down and a friendly lady showed us around both the large building, and this smaller, typical house. They had done the small house nicely, but to get to the second floor you had to up a metal spiral staircase on the outside. Both the upper level and the lower level consisted of two rooms, with a bathroom in the middle. The total cost of this house seemed modest from a western price model. I imagined doing something similar, but with slightly expanded dimensions, and an open plan area downstairs with kitchen, dining area and sitting area. Also, there was a third level with lower windows, and gable windows, but this is only accessible via a hatch. This is where they would keep the corn and other crops to store and dry in the traditional houses. Now this is just for the water tank.
So, finally, the stupa of Namobuddha comes into view, with the golden roofs gleaming. A descent, and another climb up. The views of the Mahabharata Hills are superb, though the air is still misty. The most interesting part for Madhu, is the shrine that celebrates the idea that in his previous incarnation, the Buddha sacrificed his body to a starving tigress, whose cubs were about to die as well. This legend attracts Hindu visitors to this place as well. We also went to the main prayer hall. Here, I think there are seven Buddhas in golden statues of various sizes, which represent different aspects of Buddhahood, such as The Buddha of Compassion. Otherwise, I still wonder why the prayer halls are so crammed with illustration, pillars, roofs, all sporting mandalas. Maybe all this represents samsara, or moreover something similar to the Hindu concept of maya, so all of this quite gaudy display of colour is meant simply to be ignored in the meditational practice. However, every time I go into a Buddhist redoubt, I feel very detached and it doesn’t set the pulse racing. But I always recognise the place Buddhism has in the religious experience.
The walk back could have been via another route, towards Panauti, which would be a descent, but I opted just to return the same way. I wanted to do the complete walk, which would be at least 25km. And, in fact, this was a good idea, since once you have gone up a short way, there was a long, gradual descent on that road which is being resurfaced, and was still quiet. The final section back to Dhulikhel features quite a long rise up from the road to the Terai, then you reach the Kali temple again, where we bought some drinks, then back down the steps. The whole journey was 27.5km. This was certainly enough for today!